Pilgrim to Assisi

I reckon I now understand why a large number of Europeans seem to be indefferent with cobblestoned lanes –which, while appear romantic, are scarcely found in Australia and Asia (poor us).

Italians are so blessed with medieval villages and towns they have casually abondoned a few and given them up to the tourists.

That seems to be the case with Assisi, a most popular destination for that mega important pilgrim for any self-respected Christians.

Assisi is just over twenty kilometres away from where I live, Perugia, yet the place is barely easily accessible without an own vehicle (car, scooter, and those ubiquitous three wheeled italian tuk-tuks). The fact that most centro storico are comfortably nested upon steep hills (particularly in Umbria) this is a bless in disguise, it served as an excellent natural defence against upcoming invaders and, more importantly, saved them from barbarian invasions following the fall of Rome.

Let's not get carried away with la storia.



Vieux-Assise is a quick bus ride, hiking up the hill is recommended for those brave enough to hitch the five km uphill journey in the summer heat. The lower town is where most Assisians live, not too touristy yet there's quite an impressive Renaissance Duomo in the smack bang of the residential area (even the smallest community in Italy needs a grand place of worship).

What immediately took my interest is the colour of Assisi. It may be a stone throw away from Perugia (the provincial capital) the colour of Assisi, however, differs greatly, being significantly very much shiny and luminous to that of Perugia.



Most Assisi palazzi (buildings) and city walls were of rough cut stone of pinkish and sand white hues. This is precisely how this ancient town, from great distance, radiate a gentle pastel shadow. Whereas Perugia, owing to the mysteriousness of the Etruscans perhaps, own a sombre and darkish mood in amongst its lanes, arches, and city walls.

Assisi centro storico is rather petit, end to end may be covered in an hour on a relaxing walk. Churches are abundant, just like any other Italian towship. Assisi owes its fame to its local boy, Francesco, who was a son of a wealthy merchant then soldier of the Perugia Comune, got his divine call then a monk.

San Francesco became even more special as he established a very modest way of living for a monk, with Franciscan monks to survive todate.



I see Franciscan monks everywhere in towns, they seem to be running the whole show. The chiesa di San Francesco (church) is a tourist magnet and it probably deserves to be one. I am impressed by the grand sight of the lawn in the courtyard of the upper basilica that states PAX (pace, paix, peace) and from what appears to be the Franciscan way of living, they seem to be promoting peace to the world. However he is called, San Francesco, Franziscus, Saint François, isn't peace what we all need in these troubled times?

The lower basilica is probably more special. The strong thousands of tourists seem to be keen to pay hommage to their favourite Saint. La tomba di S Francesco (the tomb) is down the crypt, modestly decorated and surrounded by fresh flowers. Flow of visitors runs smoothly and minimum surveillance from the security guards in the main basilica vigilantly offing visitors who sneak a couple of snaps of the frescoes. The small chamber housing the the reliques of San Francesco has an airy ventilation (possibly enhanced by the latest air conditioning system) and does not feel stuffy at all.

Externally, it's the same story, the basilica's façade has minimum décor and embellishment, disaffiliating itself from the Ponfiticus own taste in Rome.



The rest of the town seems to be sleeply little apartments sans inhabitants and cutesy tiny cafes, pizzerias, and restaurants geared up to mass tourism, freckle the few piazzas. Don't get me wrong though, I still enjoy my passeggiata (walk) here, the cobblestoned laneways are notably cleaner, clearly sign-posted and less disorienting to those of Perugia.

For one of best vistas of the Umbrian valleys, Assisi is definitely the place.

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There is a great option of places to visit but I'll probably need something different, something less Umbrian. There seems to be direct trains to Firenze (Florence) and buses to Siena. So ... who knows.

La dolce vita continues. My course is to start soon. My paperwork affair is a nightmare though. sigh.


ciao ciao